July 22-25, 1984

July 22-25, 1984

This morning I was back at the Athens airport for a flight to Madrid.  I need to work my way back to London, and Spain is on my "must see" list. Flying on a half-price student fare is the quickest way to get there.

That evening I went to the Las Ventas Arena to watch a Spanish bullfight.  I was unprepared for the gore.  From TV I thought that they just tease the bull with the red cape.  But that is only the prelude.  The bullfight concludes with the toreador sticking the bull with darts to irritate him and then at the climax driving a sword behind the bull’s head killing him instantly.  A team of horses then drags the bull’s carcass out to ready the arena for the next round.

The next day I start my exploration at the Palacio Real, the Royal Palace. The best part of the tour is the Royal Armory with its wonderful array of weapons.

I have dinner that night alone.  Not only because I am traveling alone for the first time in a long while, but I am also way too early.  The Spanish don’t eat until I am already in bed.  They stay up late which is why they need the siesta the next day.

The next day I walked thru the Puerta del Sol and Plaza Mayor squares on the way to visiting the Prado Museum with its wonderful collection of paintings (especially El Greco, Goya, and Velasquez).  Afterwards, tired and feeling lazy I visit the nearby Retiro Park and sit on the grass by the edge of a nice lake facing the nice Alfonso XII Monument and daydreaming.  In the middle of a dream, a couple blondes behind me start up a conversation asking where I am from.  They are Dutch and the cute one is named Belle.  We have a nice conversation but I come to find they are talking to me because a couple Spaniards are talking crudely and thinking about harassing them.  At least that is what they tell me.  I can’t speak a word of Spanish to verify.  Eventually the Spaniards decide messing with an American is not wise and wander off.  The girls are on their way to the Canary Islands for vacation and invite me along.  Unfortunately my vacation is nearing an end and I have to decline.

That evening in planning my next stops I notice that my 60-day Eurail pass expires at midnight. Yikes! Tonight is the last of my free transportation.  Realizing this I take the night train north.  I am hoping to get as close to London as possible before a conductor notices.  I made it most of the way to Paris.

Back in Paris I stop at the Rodin Museum.  I am a big fan of sculpture and Rodin is probably the most famous of the modern sculptors with his iconic “The Thinker” and “The Kiss” statues.